Of Apples and Autumn

Empire Apples, Masker Orchards

There is something about this time of year that drives me back to the kitchen with renewed interest. The cooler weather, shorter days and intersection of last-gasp summer and just-ripe fall produce at the farmer's markets makes cooking much more interesting. I love summer, just ask anyone with a beach house who knows me! And I adore the simplicity of summer cooking with amazing in-season ingredients. But when the air gets that chill and the sun starts to set before we've finished with dinner, I look forward nights of braised meats, roasted root vegetables and apples. Crunchy, juicy, apples.

For a family of three we eat an astonishing amount of apples. And we enjoy picking them ourselves. Over time we have developed a family tradition. We pick our apples at Masker Orchards in Warwick, NY. Nothing fancy. Just your basic pick-your-own place.  We make a day of it.  First we pick and eat ourselves into an apple-colored daze. Then we pay for our apples (29.1 lbs of them this year to be precise), buy some cider and head into town for lunch (this year we stumbled across Eddie's Roadhouse. The burgers are fantastic - ground in-house, flavorful and juicy - and they have an interesting and varied selection of beers on tap.  Ask for some garlic aioli for your fries). Afterwards we head to Bellvale Creamery for their pumpkin ice cream. Then we come home and contemplate the apples.

Apple pie.  Apple crisp.  Baked apples.  Plain old apples.  Apple sauce.  I make it all.  Then this year I was struck by inspiration.  What better way to get rid of make use of these delicious specimens than apple butter?  My love affair with slow cooking has endured and I decided that I would attempt to make apple butter in the slow cooker. Is it OK to call myself a genius? The slow cooker broke down the apples while concentrating all of their flavor. The result was a luscious, highly flavorful, caramel-brown, spice-scented spread. If you have an abundance of apples I recommend trying your hand at apple butter.

Apple butter is wonderful as an addition to oatmeal or other hot cereals, on a bagel or pumpkin bread with cream cheese, as an accompaniment to a cheese platter, as a spread on sandwiches or, for some of us, right off the spoon.

World’s Easiest Apple Butter

Ingredients:

• Approximately 6 lbs of apples (a mix of sweet and tart), peeled, cored and cut into 1” chunks
• ½ cup water, apple cider, or orange juice
• Zest of one lemon
• 2 cups of sugar (if you don’t plan on canning this you can cut down on the sugar but since I often use this with cheese the sweetness provides a nice contrast especially with sharp cheeses)
• 2 tsp ground cinnamon
• Pinch of salt
• Other spices to your taste – I usually toss in a few star anise and cardamom pods (just remove them once the butter is done).  Fresh ginger would be good too, if you have it on-hand.

Preparation:

1. Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl large enough to accommodate them.  
2. Stir well to mix and make sure the liquid and sugar is evenly distributed.  
3. Toss into your slow cooker, set it to low and let it cook for 10 hours.  
4. Wake up to the best smell and delicious apple butter.  Alternatively, come home from work to the best smell and delicious apple butter.

You can also make this on the stovetop; it just requires a little more vigilance.  Once the ingredients are combined pour them into a large, non-reactive pot. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer, stirring occasionally until it reaches the consistency of extremely thick applesauce and the color of dark caramel.

If desired you can process the apple butter and can it.  It makes a nice holiday gift for teachers.  You can find detailed canning information and instructions here.

The child, clearly enjoying the fruits of her labor.  Pun intended.

Resolve (and a recipe for Raw Kale Salad)

Long before the holiday season I decided I wouldn't be making any so-called resolutions this year.   I find the word "resolution" is fraught with too much meaning and undo pressure.  I just don't feel compelled to make proclamations about my quest for betterment (if I'm even on one but let's leave that for another post, shall we?).  When we so often set ourselves up for failure - why do it publicly?

Many people see January 1st as a chance for renewal and in some ways I agree.  There is something motivating about the idea of people coming together to make positive changes.  But the timing is rather arbitrary, don't you think?  As a Jewish woman I also get to start "fresh" after fasting on Yom Kippur.  As an in-law in a predominantly Chinese family I can wipe the slate clean with a strategically timed haircut, new clothes, the sweep of a broom, and the consumption of traditional foods on Lunar New Year.   Is it fair that I get three chances while others only get one?

Maybe it's wisdom.  Maybe it's semantics.  Maybe it's all the therapy.    But as I age (ahem), rather than trying to change myself at artificially prescribed times of the year, I prefer to take stock of what is going on in my life on a continual basis and see what I can do to improve.   I also make an effort to give myself credit for areas where I don't need to to make any adjustments.  I like this approach because it forces me to appreciate all that I have when I am not always a "glass half-full" type.  These mini check-ins are illuminating.  May I be so bold as to suggest you try it this year?   But only if you promise not to resolve to do it.

For those of you who have made healthy resolutions I offer up this recipe for a raw kale salad.  Don't be put off by those three words.  This salad is quite tasty, satisfying and quick to throw together.  It's a mash-up of two of my favorite kale salads of all time with my own additions.  One is from the restaurant Northern Spy and the other is from the always reliable Melissa Clark.  I know many children who love versions of these salads so I will even dare to say this is a child-friendly recipe.

Raw Kale Salad

Adapted from Northern Spy and Melissa Clark
Serves 2-4 depending on the portion size

Ingredients:

• 1 bunch of lacinato kale (also referred to as Tuscan, black, or dinosaur kale)
• 1-2 TBS olive oil
• 1 garlic clove, minced or mashed to a paste
• zest and juice of one lemon
• 1-2 TBS buttermilk (or low fat plain Greek yogurt - these both add creaminess, richness and tang with minimal fat)
• salt and pepper to taste
• 1/4 cup toasted sliced almonds or walnuts
• 1 small green apple, cored and chopped or sliced into matchsticks or about 1/2 cup of red grapes washed and cut into quarters
• 2 TBS freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Preparation:

1. Wash and spin the kale dry.
2. Either shred the kale by piling the leaves up and rolling them together and slicing thinly or tear into bite-sized pieces.
3. Combine the olive oil, garlic, lemon, buttermilk and salt and pepper and mix well - a whisk works best but some vigorous work with a fork will do the trick.  Adjust to your tastes (I prefer a very acidic dressing).
4. Add the dressing to the kale and toss to combine.  You can "massage" the dressing into the kale with your hands if you prefer - this helps break down the fibrous kale a bit.
5. Add in the nuts, apples and cheese and stir to combine.  
6. Enjoy!

This salad is very adaptable.  Try other add-ins, eliminate the buttermilk, use vinegar instead of lemon.  You get the idea.